Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Friday, July 25, 2008
Done!
I'm officially done here in Tunis. Our final party and graduation is tonight.
I'm leaving for Egypt on Monday. It should be a great time.
My internet will be a bit spotty, but hopefully I'll be able to update when I get back.
- Molly
I'm leaving for Egypt on Monday. It should be a great time.
My internet will be a bit spotty, but hopefully I'll be able to update when I get back.
- Molly
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
More Detailed Description of Last Weekend!
We left Tunis on the 9 pm bus to Tozeur, in southern Tunisia. It w
as a 7 hour bus ride. I was sitting in the back so my seat didn't decline. It also happened to be broken, so the seat kept falling off. I was also sitting near the window, or what used to be the window. It had broken at some point and been replaced with aluminum siding. The Tunisians in front of us were also playing music on their cell phones - different songs at the same time. Needless to say, it was an adventurous bus ride.
as a 7 hour bus ride. I was sitting in the back so my seat didn't decline. It also happened to be broken, so the seat kept falling off. I was also sitting near the window, or what used to be the window. It had broken at some point and been replaced with aluminum siding. The Tunisians in front of us were also playing music on their cell phones - different songs at the same time. Needless to say, it was an adventurous bus ride.We arrived in Tozeur at about 4:15 am, just before the call to prayer. We spent the next couple of hours sleeping outside the bus station (see picture). Yes, we look like hobos.
We wandered around searching for a tour. We found one and the six of us headed out to the Sahara. We ended up off-roading in a 4x4. It was a lot of fun, once our guide fixed my seatbelt and I no longer feared for my life (jk). We went zooming over sand dunes and around rock formations. It felt like a rollercoaster.
As we rounded a sand dune, we suddenly saw a bunch of huts in the middle of the desert. What is that, we wondered? Our guide informed us (or rather me, since I was the only one who spoke French) that it was the Star Wars movie set. We got out of the car and took the obligatory Jedi pictures. (hehe I'm whoosing).
Afterwards, we drove around a bit more, stopping to see a herd of wild camels and a well that the desert people used. Then, our guide took us past border security, explaining that the only reason we were allowed past was because we were with a guide. He took us to some guides who were going to give us a tour on camels. It was very very very hot and the sun was incredibly intense, but it was amazing to ride camels. Also, we're pretty sure that we crossed the Algerian border, which is technically illegal without a visa. However, since we were in the desert, the border is rather negotiable. We had some trouble crossing the the border guard/Sahara po
lice in the other direction, who didn't want to let us in without our actual passports (which were left for safekeeping at school in Tunis). It was the same officer who had let us through 2 hours before, so I'm pretty sure that be was just giving us a hard time because all he has to do all day is sit at this guardpost in the Sahara and wait for people to come by. Still, it was a bit frightening.
lice in the other direction, who didn't want to let us in without our actual passports (which were left for safekeeping at school in Tunis). It was the same officer who had let us through 2 hours before, so I'm pretty sure that be was just giving us a hard time because all he has to do all day is sit at this guardpost in the Sahara and wait for people to come by. Still, it was a bit frightening.Upon returning to Tozeur, we had lunch and grabbed a louage to Gabes, on the other side of the country, where we were spending the night.
We left the hotel at 6 am Sunday morning to grab a louage to Tatouine. Yes, the planet on Star War was named after it. There is not much of touristy interest in Tatouine itself, however, the surrounding villages served as sites for the Star Wars films. Remember the troglodyte houses
in the films and the Cantina? We visited Chenini and Douari. More historically, people lived in these villages until recently. A recent storm washed out one of the villages so all the people moved out, although there is reconstruction being done to preserve these beautiful dwellings. In Chennini, the homes were the dwellings of the ancient Coptic Christians, and their cross could be found over the doors.
in the films and the Cantina? We visited Chenini and Douari. More historically, people lived in these villages until recently. A recent storm washed out one of the villages so all the people moved out, although there is reconstruction being done to preserve these beautiful dwellings. In Chennini, the homes were the dwellings of the ancient Coptic Christians, and their cross could be found over the doors.After Tatouine, we grabbed lunch. Easier said than done. Our cab drivers took us back to the bus station, where we learned that there was a two km walk to the center of town to find the nearest restaurant. We went to the nearest salon de the and ordered drinks. They offered to make us sandwiches. They went and bought bread, chopped up vegetables, and mixed it with tuna (I swear its the national dish of Tunisia). They even gave us free water (and didn't overcharge us). They were sooo nice.
We then arranged a louage back to Tunis - 8 hours. And our trip was over!
This was definitely my favorite weekend in Tunisia. The people were so incredibly nice. We had no stalkers or vulgar comments. Everyone went out of our way to be friendly and help us get where we were going. I have found that everyone in Tunisia seems to genuinely like Americans. We may get comments about our government, but it seems that they have a good opinion about the people themselves and admire and envy the freedom and prosperity that we have.
The weekend was also a great opportunity for me to practice my Fren
ch. I was the only person in the group who could speak a large amout of French. I was the go-to person for translations and negotiations and all that good stuff. I also learned that it's not just my French that's bad - it's often the Tunisians. Less educated Tunisians often don't speak French as well. French is also less common in the south, which is much more conservative and a lot less European. It made me feel better about my ability to understand French!
Unfortunately, the weekend passed so fast. There was so much more I wish I could have seen. I like the south a lot better than Tunis and wish I had a chance to go back.
Monday, July 21, 2008
What I did this weekend
1) I slept on the ground outside of a bus station in Tozeur - a town in southern Tunisian.
2) I crossed from one side of Tunisian to the other (north to south, then west to east).
2) I went off-roading in the Sahara Desert.
3) I saw Star Wars movie sets in the Sahara.
4) I rode a camel along the Tunisian-Algerian border.
5) I visited the troglodyte rock houses in Tatouine.
Overall, it was a pretty wonderful weekend. Only 1 week left!
2) I crossed from one side of Tunisian to the other (north to south, then west to east).
2) I went off-roading in the Sahara Desert.
3) I saw Star Wars movie sets in the Sahara.
4) I rode a camel along the Tunisian-Algerian border.
5) I visited the troglodyte rock houses in Tatouine.
Overall, it was a pretty wonderful weekend. Only 1 week left!
Monday, July 14, 2008
Sad Sad Day
My computer is officially dead. Now, I have to lug a broken piece of electronic equipment across 3 continents in the next 3 weeks. yay.
On the other hand, we went to Tabarka and Dougga this weekend.
Dougga is the site of Roman ruins about 20 km from the Algerian border. It was very very hot. It is much less touristy than Carthage, so I really enjoyed it. An archeologist went with us and explained stuff. Strangest thing: a communal toilet - 12 toilets together...
We also went through a tiny town called Ain Something (Spring something). Many towns in the area are called Spring something because of the natural springs in the area. This particular town was very un-Tunisian looking. It was founded by French Catholics in the 1800's and looks very European. The roofs are even pointed because it actually snows here in the winter (since it's in the mountains).
We spent the night in Tabarka at a beach resort. Yay for buffets of good food provided with the hotel. Nothing new about the experience. Just another excuse for our directors to have a free vacation on the American government. I'm totally ok with this as long as I get to go along. And there was another weird cabaret that all the Italians at the resort seemed to love but which none of us Americans understood...
On the other hand, we went to Tabarka and Dougga this weekend.
Dougga is the site of Roman ruins about 20 km from the Algerian border. It was very very hot. It is much less touristy than Carthage, so I really enjoyed it. An archeologist went with us and explained stuff. Strangest thing: a communal toilet - 12 toilets together...
We also went through a tiny town called Ain Something (Spring something). Many towns in the area are called Spring something because of the natural springs in the area. This particular town was very un-Tunisian looking. It was founded by French Catholics in the 1800's and looks very European. The roofs are even pointed because it actually snows here in the winter (since it's in the mountains).
We spent the night in Tabarka at a beach resort. Yay for buffets of good food provided with the hotel. Nothing new about the experience. Just another excuse for our directors to have a free vacation on the American government. I'm totally ok with this as long as I get to go along. And there was another weird cabaret that all the Italians at the resort seemed to love but which none of us Americans understood...
Thursday, July 3, 2008
Some random thoughts
To answer David's question: I'm pretty sure it's calibrated to Mohammed. Tradition holds that his barber is buried in Kairouan. No, I'm not kidding.
To answer Krissy's question: Camels are mean animals. Since this particular camel walks in circles around a well all day, it is a good idea to blindfold him so he doesn't know where he's going, try to attack the people watching.
Also, I'm whooshing at Carthage in the first picture. I am underneath the coliseum in El Jem in the second (I thought it looked kinda artsy).
On a side note:
I am starting to dislike American media, and it's global influence. The US is a superpower, no doubt about it. One might think that our foreign policy is our greatest export. The Arabs don't like us because we invade and destroy their countries (and they certainly have a valid argument). However, this is hardly our greatest influence in the world. Even more than our foreign policy, we export our media (everyone here knows Paris Hilton, Grey's Anatomy, Sex and the City, 24)...and American television and film does not portray the most flattering view of the western world.
First, the American portrayal of women and sexual behavior is often far from reality. "Good girls" in Tunisia often wear the hijab, and parents keep a tight watch on their daughters. They don't go out much at night. Although more common today, the mixing of the sexes is still very supervised. Women dress conservatively-shoulders and knees usually covered. (According to my host sister, Tunisian women are considered the skanks of the Arab world. As my tutor told me, the people from the Middle East believe that if you are Muslim and want to wear tight jeans, you should go to Tunisia). Alcohol is permissible here, but those Tunisians who drink are seen as having lower morals and alcohol related car accidents are a major problem. America is seen as a much freer country. As an American female, I grew up wearing shorts and sleeveless shirts. I'm allowed to go out with friends (and even, o my, associate with the male sex) (even at night). As a Catholic, I have been tasting wine from a young age, and I have grown up in a culture that embraces social drinking. And despite all this, I come from a fairly conservative family.
American media certainly portrays this, but it also portrays a lot more. The Arab world sees this, but it also sees the large amounts of free sex and alcohol in the media and associates them in the same way with the western world. As an American, I am expected to act the same way as the people in the movies. Upon entering a touristy restaurant, I am immediately offered beer, since that is apparently the standard western drink, no matter what meal of the day. When walking down the street, I am constantly stared at and occasionally followed (no matter what I am wearing). Since I am a Western girl, I must be the opposite of traditional Tunisian girls. Solicitations for sex are quite common.
Simply because I come from a culture in which women have more freedom, doesn't mean that I am quite as "free" as the media shows. My high school experience certainly was not the equivalent of American Pie or even Mean Girls. The greater freedom comes with greater responsibility, something that Hollywood certainly hasn't picked up. Tunisians don't understand that I am free to wear less clothing partly because young men are taught not to stare and to treat women with more respect. I can go out at night, but I don't wander around alone, because it can be dangerous. I do not live with my parents, but I am also in charge of much of my own money and managing my own time. Alcohol is permissible, but it is part of our culture. As a result, I don't drink a lot and I certainly don't drink and drive. My 17 year old host sister was amazed to find out that I had a curfew in high school, that I didn't alcohol in high school, that I wasn't allowed to watch movies with lots of sex and violence, and that (unlike her) I'd never snuck out of my parents' house to go see a boy.
Think about it: if Arabs only see the Western world portrayed as such, they will think that is how we really are. It is in such stark contrast with their own that they believe everything they see. No wonder they look at Western girls as wild and immoral. When American media portrays western women this way, how can I expect to be treated with respect?
My other problem with American media is its portrayal of Arabs. We actually watched a short documentary on the American media treatment of Arabs. They are portrayed as dirty and as terrorists. In fact, in the cinema release of Disney's Aladdin, the opening song, "Arabian Nights" said "Where they cut off your ear if they don't like your face/It's barbaric, but, hey, it's home," (later changed to "Where it's flat and immense and the heat is intense/It's barbaric, but, hey, it's home" in the video version). When we portray their culture this way, no wonder they dislike us too. In the video game Call of Duty, gamers play an American military official shooting dirty-looking Arabs. Imagine how awkward it was for some of the students in my program to find themselves playing this game with their host brothers during their homestay!
With our foreign policy combined with the portrayal of media, the Arab world thinks we are out to get them. They are astonished to find out that I know people in the US who are Muslim, even young women who wear hijabs! They didn't believe that (for the most part), Muslims are treated with respect.
It is our media, more than anything else, that determines how the rest of the world sees us. How can we possibly challenge typical American stereotypes when we only reinforce these images?
To answer Krissy's question: Camels are mean animals. Since this particular camel walks in circles around a well all day, it is a good idea to blindfold him so he doesn't know where he's going, try to attack the people watching.
Also, I'm whooshing at Carthage in the first picture. I am underneath the coliseum in El Jem in the second (I thought it looked kinda artsy).
On a side note:
I am starting to dislike American media, and it's global influence. The US is a superpower, no doubt about it. One might think that our foreign policy is our greatest export. The Arabs don't like us because we invade and destroy their countries (and they certainly have a valid argument). However, this is hardly our greatest influence in the world. Even more than our foreign policy, we export our media (everyone here knows Paris Hilton, Grey's Anatomy, Sex and the City, 24)...and American television and film does not portray the most flattering view of the western world.
First, the American portrayal of women and sexual behavior is often far from reality. "Good girls" in Tunisia often wear the hijab, and parents keep a tight watch on their daughters. They don't go out much at night. Although more common today, the mixing of the sexes is still very supervised. Women dress conservatively-shoulders and knees usually covered. (According to my host sister, Tunisian women are considered the skanks of the Arab world. As my tutor told me, the people from the Middle East believe that if you are Muslim and want to wear tight jeans, you should go to Tunisia). Alcohol is permissible here, but those Tunisians who drink are seen as having lower morals and alcohol related car accidents are a major problem. America is seen as a much freer country. As an American female, I grew up wearing shorts and sleeveless shirts. I'm allowed to go out with friends (and even, o my, associate with the male sex) (even at night). As a Catholic, I have been tasting wine from a young age, and I have grown up in a culture that embraces social drinking. And despite all this, I come from a fairly conservative family.
American media certainly portrays this, but it also portrays a lot more. The Arab world sees this, but it also sees the large amounts of free sex and alcohol in the media and associates them in the same way with the western world. As an American, I am expected to act the same way as the people in the movies. Upon entering a touristy restaurant, I am immediately offered beer, since that is apparently the standard western drink, no matter what meal of the day. When walking down the street, I am constantly stared at and occasionally followed (no matter what I am wearing). Since I am a Western girl, I must be the opposite of traditional Tunisian girls. Solicitations for sex are quite common.
Simply because I come from a culture in which women have more freedom, doesn't mean that I am quite as "free" as the media shows. My high school experience certainly was not the equivalent of American Pie or even Mean Girls. The greater freedom comes with greater responsibility, something that Hollywood certainly hasn't picked up. Tunisians don't understand that I am free to wear less clothing partly because young men are taught not to stare and to treat women with more respect. I can go out at night, but I don't wander around alone, because it can be dangerous. I do not live with my parents, but I am also in charge of much of my own money and managing my own time. Alcohol is permissible, but it is part of our culture. As a result, I don't drink a lot and I certainly don't drink and drive. My 17 year old host sister was amazed to find out that I had a curfew in high school, that I didn't alcohol in high school, that I wasn't allowed to watch movies with lots of sex and violence, and that (unlike her) I'd never snuck out of my parents' house to go see a boy.
Think about it: if Arabs only see the Western world portrayed as such, they will think that is how we really are. It is in such stark contrast with their own that they believe everything they see. No wonder they look at Western girls as wild and immoral. When American media portrays western women this way, how can I expect to be treated with respect?
My other problem with American media is its portrayal of Arabs. We actually watched a short documentary on the American media treatment of Arabs. They are portrayed as dirty and as terrorists. In fact, in the cinema release of Disney's Aladdin, the opening song, "Arabian Nights" said "Where they cut off your ear if they don't like your face/It's barbaric, but, hey, it's home," (later changed to "Where it's flat and immense and the heat is intense/It's barbaric, but, hey, it's home" in the video version). When we portray their culture this way, no wonder they dislike us too. In the video game Call of Duty, gamers play an American military official shooting dirty-looking Arabs. Imagine how awkward it was for some of the students in my program to find themselves playing this game with their host brothers during their homestay!
With our foreign policy combined with the portrayal of media, the Arab world thinks we are out to get them. They are astonished to find out that I know people in the US who are Muslim, even young women who wear hijabs! They didn't believe that (for the most part), Muslims are treated with respect.
It is our media, more than anything else, that determines how the rest of the world sees us. How can we possibly challenge typical American stereotypes when we only reinforce these images?
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
A Trip to Kairouan - القيروان
This past weekend, we took a Saturday day trip to Kairouan. It is the 4th holiest city in Islam (after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem). It is also the hottest city in Tunisia (even more than the southern ones most of the time). It was founded by the Arabs in 670. The picture of me has the minaret of the Great Mosque in the back. The Great Mosque is very beautiful and very old. When it was built in 670, Kairouan was the center for the Arabs in North Africa. Over time, it lost its power, but the Great Mosque is still considered very holy (and it's easy to see why).We had lunch at a ritzy restaurant (we seem to do that when we travel). It was followed by a visit to the medina. I saw a camel drawing water from a well (see picture below). I bought orange and green scarves for anyone who is interested in one when I return to the US :).
We were supposed to go to Sousse after Kairouan, but no one was very interested, especially in the heat. I was starting to wish I'd brought a short sleeved shirt.
It was definitely upwards of a hundred degrees. I slept on the bus on the way back.
That was the
end of Saturday. Sunday was the first day I'd had off in two weeks. (trip to Monastir + homestay). On Sunday, I was definitely ready to relax. A couple friends told me they had found an amazing beach within a taxi cab ride from Tunis. I was a bit skeptical, because most of the Tunis beaches are a little too seaweedy and filled with sketchy people for my personal enjoyment. But...they were right! The beach was pretty great (not as good as you can get several hours away, but it was no time to be picky). At first there was a lot of seaweed (I got blamed for being bad luck since there wasn't any seaweed any other time they'd gone), but it gradually washed away, and the water was very warm. We left the beach around 2:30 and took a pretty crazy taxi ride back. The driver didn't have any gas in his car, so he kept stalling and drove on the shoulder most of the way back to avoid getting stuck in the traffic. Luckily, we made it back ok.After a relaxing shower, we rejoined at 4:00 for couscous at a nearby restaurant. Coucous is the customary Sunday afternoon meal because it is so filling and it makes people sleepy. I went back around the corner to the hotel and took a nap. I had a sugar crepe for dinner at about 8. (pretty much an ideal food day!)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
